Activity

WHAT A PRETTY ROCKET! Ed, is that the Madcow BB2? I’m not normally a big scale modeling geek, but the MC Black Brant II is the real deal. My hunch is that is what we are looking at in your…   Read more»

Here’s what I did on a 4″ to 54mm for shock cord attachment as well as beefed up centering rings. I figured this design would give me plenty of glue-joint area as well as spread out the area of force….   Read more»

How about….. Beef up your most forward centering rings (group of 3 for great surface contact), set two 1/4-40 eye-bolts, one on each side of the motor tube. Dead center, should leave room for the 7/16th nut. Then you can…   Read more»

Hi everyone,How about….. Beef up your most forward centering rings (group of 3 for great surface contact), set two 1/4-40 eye-bolts, one on each side of the motor tube. Dead center, should leave room for the 7/16th nut. Then you…   Read more»

Look for a detailed article in the next 24 hours regarding my L3, vacuum-bagging and recovery systems in the Composite Construction forum.Warren

My L3 has a 3/8″ (or, just a step—or two–above a 1/4-20) All-Thread through the center of one ebay–don’t make me go measure it, with two Kev harnesses, one 60′ and the other 40′ long. No problems. The rocket is…   Read more»

Hi everyone,How about….. Beef up your most forward centering rings (group of 3 for great surface contact), set two 1/4-40 eye-bolts, one on each side of the motor tube. Dead center, should leave room for the 7/16th nut. Then you…   Read more»

I think you might be surprised what you can fit in a 1/2″ gap between motor and body tubes. A 38mm tube in a 3″ rocket is just over 1/2″. Split the distance for the mounting, and at 1/4″ in…   Read more»

The epoxy can (and does) also change the physical properties of the Kevlar. I’ll bet if you soaked the flat Kevlar in epoxy and took it out later you could actually break it in two – it becomes very brittle.Kevlar…   Read more»

Again, thanks for all the suggestions guys. Just to redirect back to the originl post, I was looking for methods that work with 1/2″ or less space between motor tube and airframe. Certainly if you have a full inch or…   Read more»

What Warren and JW are saying is that even Kevlar can be cut. Not easy when you WANT to cut it. But, if you send a rocket up with epoxied Kevlar, you’ve added a knife to it… by the time…   Read more»

I’ll stand by my statement – don’t glue in webbing as your shock cord anchor – regardless of the material. In a 4″ bird with a 54mm motor mount you can easily use a forged eyebolt and washer or a…   Read more»

I’ll stand by my statement – don’t glue in webbing as your shock cord anchor – regardless of the material. In a 4″ bird with a 54mm motor mount you can easily use a forged eyebolt and washer or a…   Read more»

8) I have a 4in. nike from John. So does Fonz down in Pueblo. We up- graded ours to 75mm and both of us have had bad ass flights with them. I used a L585 Imax that went to 11,965…   Read more»

For a rocket like the Nike, you have more options – in the case above, the centering ring centers a 54mm motor in a 4″ tube, so there is nearly 2″ of ring to tie into. I’d probably put an…   Read more»

I’m in Longmont as well and don’t mind shating at all.

I’m in Longmont most days, be glad to shoot the shit – no need for the beer or bourbon.

wow, this is an interesting thread! I have my L1 cert in my pocket and continue to feel a little gun shy on the L2.What would really help me out is to find a willing experienced flyer who can let…   Read more»

For another point to add, I have epoxied 1/4-20 eyebolts into Pro-38 ejection wells after removing the ejection charge. Rough up the inside of the plastic well with 80 grit sandpaper and they hold very well. I’m not sure you…   Read more»

Only the Long Burn Pro54 motors have a threaded forward closure (1/4-20) but that should not prevent you from a simple modification on your own providing you aren’t using the ejection charge. The Pro 75 and Pro98 forward closures are…   Read more»