Activity

Hey JoeDo I get credit in the Pyro War for that M795 ????Is it in the data base.I cant click on it like some of the other moters.:?

Adrian, You need to get them things ready. I am going to need a backup altimeter.

For those of you playing with your own altimeters and flight computers, I came across a VERY interesting altimeter chip today.http://www.intersema.ch/products/guide/calibrated/ms5561c/SPI interface, 16bit, 10-1100 mBar, individually calibrated, integral temperature sensor for compensation.WarrenGood taste in sensors, Warren.That sensor in a…[Read more]

Warren, that looks good. I’m know about the Gumstix, but I’m thinking about using a BASIC or C STAMP, just to get things working, then slim things down. Nice thing about big rockets,you don’t necessarily have to make things totally…   Read more»

Great info from all… Thanks

As it differs with my approach. Your experience is invaluable.I think I’m overbuilding, think 57 Chevy. I’m going to try something radically different along your lines and see how it goes.This is interesting and a definite improvement in my build…   Read more»

I assemble my motor mount and fins outside the rocket, then slide into the airframe. I use the PL Premium on the MMT to fin connection. I don’t do internal fillets to the airframe. Never have. I don’t know why….   Read more»

“PL Premium polyurethane glue (from Lowes) to secure the fins”You are using this to attach the fins internally? The MMT connection makes sense.How about the internal fillets?I foam my fin cans, but have been making rockets that are on the…   Read more»

I appreciate all the good info. I think I will stick with what I have now and go with slow speeds and lower altitudes until I get the dual deployment down and continue learning.

I’ve a PML Kit with the same thickness 1/16 inch (0.0625) G-10 fins. It’s 46 Oz empty. I have torn fins on rough landing though I have significantly increased the chute size.A five pound bird will be tough on these,…   Read more»

I generally use 1/16″ G10 and a big parachute. My Bunny Thumper rocket was 5.5″, 15lbs loaded and I used a chute that gave me a descent rate of 7 fps. I even cart wheeled it a couple times and…   Read more»

I’d recommend the G10, but shy away from the thinner stuff like 1/16, unless you’re very light or have a large chute.The last flight of Excess in Moderation was perfect, other than when it touched down. One of the 1/16″…   Read more»

Food for thought. My 14X Swift was a ‘slow motion’ of fin flutter.1/2″ plywood fins.In was not even close to mach but the extra large fins flutteredbadly and tore the lower part of the rocket apart. If it had beengoing…   Read more»

Plywood at Mach? Splinters. Use G10 on everything with light (& different) layers of composite material. Did you see JW’s record altitude rocket? See the Mach burn on the fins? Plywood will not take it. If you’re serious, use serious…   Read more»

It should have the space. It comes with the 75mm mount along with a 18″ drogue and 60″ main. I am starting to think at this point to just build it with the plywood and just not worry about speed…   Read more»

Another consideration is do you have the parachute space for the 75mm motors weight.Edward

Plywood at Mach? Splinters. Use G10 on everything with light (& different) layers of composite material. Did you see JW’s record altitude rocket? See the Mach burn on the fins? Plywood will not take it. If you’re serious, use serious…   Read more»

Shrink it to 4″ and you’ll be sure to break mach :)Edward

This one will be with the 75mm mount. CTI has some big L’s in the 6xl case that will do it. I am leaning more toward the wood fins and just glassing them.

It is going to take a lot to push a Big Nuke (5.5″ diameter) to mach plus. I’m thinking very high thrust 54mm motors or 75mm motors. I’d get the rocksim file and see what motors it takes to make…   Read more»