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Regarding using surgical tubing – use zip ties and zip ’em very tight….

I have a terminal block, so i have leads that go from the altimeter to the block….. so I think those will be secure…so you would wrap the ematch wires around the eyebolt to secure it? that seems like a…   Read more»

I dip my bulb in a little bit of ‘Quick Burst’ quick dip. Notmuch, just enough to and stregth at the cross wire.

I use the surgical tubing method. I just wrap the wires around my eyenut and put the charge in the eye of the eyenut. That way it doesn’t move around a whole lot or get pushed to one side. Always…   Read more»

Yea, I’d do that if I were you. If your worried about them floppy around just tape the leads close to your eye bolt.It is simple and easy.The more important thing to do is checking the leads where they attach…   Read more»

So I have heard plastic baggie corner from Joe, Warren loves Surgical hose, and a tip of a rubber glove…. can these work in any type of rocket?i mean I have a duel deploy 4″wide rocket(hyperloc 835) that im going…   Read more»

I’ll be happy to help you out. If you’re coming to the cleaning party tomorrow, PM me and let me know and I’ll throw a couple in the car. Otherwise, since you’re in Longmont, feel free to contact me and…   Read more»

OK, I am almost to the point on this HyperLOC 1600 project where I can venture in to the unknown and deal with Altimeters and ejection charges. I found some good articles on building ejection charges and wiring up the…   Read more»

I’d be extremely leery of christmas bulbs on high thrust rockets. My 2 cents… Personally I’ve gone over 100% to surgical rubber tubing for all my charges and I stick with e-matches.Warren

Bret, Ed’s method is very sound. Another thing that I have done is to use the corner of a sandwich bag.Good luck! Glad to see you going for some altitude!JW

I have really had good luck with an ematch and a finger of a latex or nitrile glove filled with the BP charge. I tape the finger onto the ematch wire with electrical tape and if can fit anywhere.Sice its…   Read more»

If you put the spacer above the delay, that was certainly the problem. In all Aerotech motors, the spacer goes between the propellant and the delay, and the top of the delay should be flush against the top of the…   Read more»

Anybody else think a 13-gram, single-deploy transmitter/altimeter capable of firing ignitors is a good idea?

ABSOLUTELY. Yes.JW

Adrian, I think you are “barking up the right tree”. I had cartwheels with an H268, but a wee bit ‘o noseweight cured things (sidebar – WM – I need you to post that flight on the records page, will…   Read more»

Are you using Rocksim to test out the design before you build them? Like I said in my first post, I used Rocksim to verify the stability using both the Rocksim algorithm and the Barrowman equations. The Rocksim stability margin…   Read more»

This is what everyone has troubles with. Trying to make a rocket with the smallest fins possible for less drag is tough. Many high altitude flights do summersalts and cart wheels. As your rocket gets longer as John said you…   Read more»

All I’ll say is that your F bird is far too short.WarrenAs long as the CG is ahead of the CP, “short” is not an issue. Think of it this way — if you epoxied 3 fins and a nosecone…   Read more»

All I’ll say is that your F bird is far too short. Not that I want the competition on the E, F, and G records, but I’ve never seen a bird that was stable on an F10 that was shorter…   Read more»

threaded inserts with the clips that you hang a mirror with work great in that rocket. I’d advise using new ones as a wife might not like you taking them from current hanging mirrors. They’re maybe a buck and available…   Read more»

Looks like the avatars are working fine now.As far as motor retention, PML makes a 3 point motor retainer that will fit that bird, but you need to install the threaded inserts before you install the aft centering ring. They’re…   Read more»