Activity

Bruce, I’m 3 for 3 in warning people about 1/2″ Kevlar. Maybe it is me giving them the kiss of death… but all three times I told guys it would NOT hold, and it did not. Is this the MW…   Read more»

Funny, I’m using 1/2″ Kevlar harnesses… I’ll have the booster at 4′, next section holding the chute at 3′, that would stay together at 7′, and the payload section with the main at 3′ with a 2′ nosecone, at 5’….   Read more»

Yes, I have zippered fiberglass G10 tubing with kevlar shock cord. However, it was a very long rocket and I was trying to pop the nose cone off first (at apogee) instead of breaking it in the middle.Doug

Okay, my L3 can fly in three configurations: with a payload section, without the payload section, and using the payload section for dual deployment. Now, the question I have is… has anyone had a zippering or splitting problem with 1/16″…   Read more»

I’ve got to have them somewhere. My section of the garage with my tools is so cluttered (hey, there’s a project) that I know I have them… somewhere. I just knew where the 409’s were. Hmmm… next time, guys. :)Checked…   Read more»

Agreed :)The diamond wheel goes through phenolic, glass, carbon, and kevlar (not cloth, but layups) like butter. Never seen anything else that cuts quite as cleanly and smoothly as it does.

Actually My favorite blade for cutting FG with is a diamond cutting blade/wheel. Makes the #409’s look very dull. If you necer have tried one you should Bruce.

Well, spent this week cutting an ebay hatch… took five attempts and five hatches, but that’s just me. 🙂 When cutting G10 fiberglass, I recommend using the ol’ Dremel #409 cutting wheel. While you go through a few, it cuts…   Read more»

I belive that Bruce has allready checked it out but for anyone else that wants to look at my L3 project and the progress I make until its done can go here >http://www.rocketryforum.com/showthread.php?s=&threadid=27663I am currently working on the booster section…   Read more»

Hey, Ken, all levels need that information! No digression.

Not necessarily related to L3, but for those folks who live in the Broomfield/Lafayette/Louisville area, ACE hardware on 287 and S. Boulder Rd. almost equals McGuckins for bolts, nuts, threaded inserts, etc. They have it all. And for custom paint…   Read more»

I’m posting a reply to myself… 🙂 Got the fins glassed, and I’m saving any fillets for just before finishing, moving on to construction. Stopped at the Big Blue Monster (Lowe’s, as opposed to Denverdoc’s Big Orange Monster, Home Depot……   Read more»

The time that the casing can be reloaded is how fast you can load it again. Theres not really a time limit.

Simple Green is probably the best cleaner for early cleaning. If you let the case go, a straight up white vinegar soak really helps.Warren

It’s easy to clean as long as you don’t wait too long (more than 24hrs or so). Baby wipes are good for getting out the easy stuff. Make sure you get all of the threads inside and out of the…   Read more»

Ah, the Christmas list… 🙂 Better start now..

Actually only the deployemnt of the appogee/drouge segment might really put any stress on the BP’s and as that it is such a smaller size in comparison to the mains its not alot. The other reason it is not so…   Read more»

I agree with you and Warren about where to put the stress. But where does the All-thread put the stress?… on the bulk plates, even with eyebolts attached to the All-thread, right? I picked up the thin metal plates Ken…   Read more»

I actually agree Bruce bigger diameter allthread would be better. Also I belive in exerting the force of the deployment onto the allthreads vs the BP. so I dont use the ubolts. I actually either use forged eyenuts or forged…   Read more»

Bruce the plates are finished.