If you can enhance my understanding, I would appreciate it. How is the mylar that you need different from the mylar that streamers for rockets and streamers for parties along with mylar banners different? My thought is that I have a 4' X 50' X 2 mil. roll of chrome mylar. I could sell you a portion of that if you can use it.

Epoxy doesn't stick to mylar, so you use it as a release film when laying up fiberglass or carbon fiber. I should say that epoxy "largely" doesn't stick to mylar, but it does to a degree, just not like it does to other materials. You would generally use plain mylar if you want a glassy finish instead of one that you would be bonding further layers to. If that is the case, you would use peel-ply or perforated mylar release film so that the excess epoxy can be removed via vacuum bagging or similar methods.

Back in the late 60's and early 70's, Estes had a spiral wound body tube, just like our kraft paper body tubes of today, that was made of mylar, instead of paer, called the BT-30. It was lighter than a BT-20, same ID, but the wall thickness was half as thick, so the OD was smaller. It was also translucent and paint did not stick to it very well. You had to apply tape or some adhesive backed paper like a mailing label to be able to glue fins to the paper base. I did not like it because it was very flexible and my paint would not adhere. Sure you could deform it within limits and it would always spring back. How was it made and what was the bonding agent, heat? When I think of a mylar tube, that is what I am thinking of, and I believe slow cure CA will secure it. I was not thinking of a protective surface to prevent epoxy from sticking to your mandrel before you try to glass it up and make a glass or carbon airframe tube. Thanks Warren for your explanation, though. I guess I was wrong. I would also presume the stuff I have, will than not be adequate for the purpose of making glass tubes. (That was not the reason I purchased it anyway.)