I used AeroPoxy on my M1450 boost. I used convolute wound glass, so all I had to do was the tip-2-tip stuff. I did 5 layers of that. A quart (of mixed product?) should go quite a long way. The ratio of epoxy to hardener is ~3:1 if I remember correctly.

Bottom line, a quart should do several rockets. Your actual mileage may vary....

Mike, I love the stuff. While I think it's the best on the market (get it from Tim Thomas), others may say that West is best. I've built two rockets with a quart of the structural and laminating adhesives this year, and most likely will be able to get into a third... then buy next year's supply from Tim at the annual meeting. It is truly wonderful epoxy.

I just finished off my gallon of Aeropoxy I bought 3 years ago. Works really nice - just wish it would cure a little faster. I fiberglassed at least 8 x 98mm x 34" tubes. 4 x 64mm x 34" tubes. 6 x 75mm x 34" tubes. 2 x 5.5" x 48" tubes. And probably more that I can't think of. It is great for glassing. I just bought a gallon of Mr. Fiberglass mainly because I can't justify the cost of the next gallon of Aeropoxy (was only $45/gal when I bought it) and I don't use it to its full potential.

I also had better results when I heat cured it. When I fiberglass the tubes I put them in my shed which I heat to 125-150 degrees (depends on the weather) and they cure much nicer.

Edward

Personally I'm a West Systems guy, but I do consider the Aeropoxy resin to be a superior product in terms of its characteristics. I use West largely because I have very long experience with it in boat building and like the pre-measuring pumps. No weighing or screwing around - just pump the same number of pumps from resin and hardener and away you go. It's a shame Aeropoxy doesn't do the same.

Waren

I still prefer Elmer's School Glue and wheat paste - tastes better and is less fattening.

You would Joe.... I like the glue sticks better myself, less of a mess....

Mike, if you want to use some mylar let me know, I have a roll I picked up from Conway last summer.

I bought Aero and wish I had the West - pump stuff, I hate measuring out things, I always get it too hot.

I used AeroPoxy a year ago on my minimum diameter "M" shot, and I used heat lamps to cure it. AeroPoxy is wunnerful stuff. This year, I used ProLine epoxy, as I had heard it was a bit better under higher temperature conditions and it does NOT need heat curing. The ProLine indeed worked great, and it held together great at Mach 2.6.

"ProLine" is the brand that Performance Rocketry uses on their Mongoose minimum diameter kits. There is a thick "paste" version and the thinner stuff that Warren and I used to v-bag "Rough Draft". I used the thinner stuff on my entire build - both for laminating and for fillets. If anyone is interested in trying some, I can bring it in with my next shipment of 3 Dogs stuff.

Generally speaking, ProLine is a bit less cost per fl. oz. than West Systems. The two components are mixed by weight, so a cheap digital scale helps -- they do not use the pump system like West. I found a postal scale for $8 that I used for measuring...

Wildman carries a ProLine epoxy - is that the stuff you're referring to John? He sent me some with an order and I've been afraid to try it because I have both Aeropoxy and West Systems.

Jeremiah, a bit of a complex answer - Mongoose and Blackbird kits come with a black "paste" epoxy. It is a ProLine product. I used the clear liquid in my build (also made by ProLine). Same brand, two totally different products.

They are both really terrific epoxies, though pastes are inherently tough to deal with.... at least with my ten thumbs.

The black paste will NOT work to laminate fabrics, as it does not wet out. The clear liquid is very low in viscosity, just like West Systems. I thought it wet better than West, and it definitely has a higher temp rating than West Systems - which is also a good product.

I would agree with John, the Proline wet out somewhat better than West Systems, although not so you'd notice unless you've used a lot of West Systems. I'd personally give it a try - with a scale it's not much more difficult to use than West Systems. If I didn't have a quart and a half or more of West Systems still sitting here I would get some.

I'm much more interested in the paste version of the Proline epoxy. For fin roots, fillets, centering ring to motor mount joints, etc. it sounds like the ticket due to temp resistance. There is also an expensive Cotronics epoxy that I've heard folks paint on nose cone tips and leading and trailing edges of fins to combat the frictional heating from multi-mach flight.

Warren

Anyone have an actual link to the paste version of the proline stuff? I can't find it on Tim's page. I like the sounds of it and would like to use some for the fins & motor mount on my Wildman Dual deploy build....

Not everybody needs really high temperature epoxy, but if you do, here's some more info on the Cotronics offerings:

Cotronics has a black paste epoxy (4525) that may be related (identical?) to the ProLine epoxy discussed above. They also carry laminating resin that wets fabric out similar to Aeropoxy, but is good up to 500-600F. Both of those products are available in 2 versions: one that cures at room temperature and goes up to 500F, and another version that requires 250F to cure but goes up to 600F. What Jim Jarvis used for his multi-Mach flights was to paint on the paste (cotronics 4525) onto his leading edges and nosecone. He was nice enough to ship me the rest of what he was using. I've used it for gluing on fin stock and couplers, and it's quite strong. The mix ratio is 8:100 though, so if you want a small batch you need to start by measuring out the hardner on a sub-gram scale, and then add the resin.

I also decided to try the high-temperature laminating resin for my thin fins and for my sustainer tube layup, since it was simming over Mach 3, but I made the mistake of buying the 4460 (not room temperature curing) rather than the 4461. The 4460 came in tubs that mix 27:10 by weight and added up to close to a half gallon for $80 or so. I still have most of it left. I'm used to cleaning up a messy epoxy area after a layup cures, but without room temperature curing, I would be waiting a long time. It's also difficult to vacuum bag inside an oven, so I don't think the extra 100F of capability is worth it. I still haven't put my new rocket parts through a high speed flight yet to test out the temperature resistance.

IIRC Cotronics has a very short shelf life? I know I read or heard that somewhere...

I haven't found anything on ProLine products on the web. The paste is crazy in that it is what holds the Mongoose fins on - no tip to tip glassing needed (at least on the 38mm and 54mm versions). Sean S. has flown the 54mm with an L and he did NOT do a tip-2-tip layup... just used the paste.

FWIW, the Mongoose is typically built without tip-2-tip layups unless you go 98mm and bigger. That said, there is no way I'd do a minimum diameter 75mm project without glassing tip-2-tip. For one thing, a couple of layers of fabric is cheap insurance when buying a $300+ motor.

Why is the good stuff always so hard to find???? I think they do it to us on purpose.

Check this out, I found it on an electronics page talking about the stuff cotronics sells. http://www.cotronics.com/vo/cotr/
Sounds to me like a pretty good match to me....
Description:
"Offering alternative to silver-filled, electrically conductive epoxies, nickel-filled Duralco 122 cures at room temperature in 16-24 hr at 75°F or can be fast cured in 10 min at 200°F. Resistant to moisture, chemicals, and solvents, 2-part epoxy bonds well to glass, ceramics, plastics, dissimilar materials, and metals, including steel, stainless, aluminum, and lead. It is suited for flexible circuits, semiconductors, EMI shielding, thermistors, wire tacking, and heating elements. "

Also, has anyone come across the PC-Farhrenheit paste sold at Home Depot? It's rated at 500F and has about the same description.