What kind of paint are you using?

I am no expert but Kilts is really made for latex based paint. If you are spraying your colors with automotive paint (or even spray can stuff) you really should be using an epoxy based automotive primer. Also clear coats in light layers really help to strengthen the paint job. I have been using the low to mid level omni line of PPG which is at a great price for the value. Since using this paint I have not had any or very little issues with paint and paint chips etc.

Mike,

I have been using the DuPont / Nason line of automotive paints for my top coats. I really like the finish as well as the service from the local store in Longmont.

Though, I have been wondering about the primers I have been using as I feel I am putting a Cadillac finish in a Pinto primer.

I really like the way Kilz wet sands and is so easy to apply additional coats. Between Bondo and Kilz you can do anything. I've read a lot of forums on Kilz and Wilke turned me on the ease of finishing. That being said, I suppose JW never really puts a finish coat on many of his rockets.

I do use several coats of primer and the additional hassles of mixing and cleaning the spray gun have helped me procrastinate on making the move.

Ed , I use Evercoat's dura build gray premium high build acrylic primer surfacer. IT is designed to be a little heavier that your typical primer and fills very well like kilts. It also sands very nice as well.

The downside is that it must be thinned and sprayed with an HVLP sprayer. This in combination with Aeropoxy lightweight filler makes for a killer smooth finish. plus this paint is made for automotive paints so it sticks much better (no chipping).

All paints jobs (good or bad) whether on a car or a rocket always go back to the paint prep and materials used. 98% of the time of a good paint job is spent in prep before the color goes on.

Now that being said I only use auto paint on bigger projects. Rockets that are not going to fly as much or just are big and easier to paint. Then it is worth it to get out the HVLP sprayer and take the time to mix spray and clean up a few times (several thin coats). On smaller rockets that are going to fly more and get more wear and drug around I just use spray can primer and spray can paint. Its cheap and easy and does not take a lot of time.

.... I suppose JW never really puts a finish coat on many of his rockets.

What is this mysterious substance you refer to as "paint"? I'm not familiar with it 8)

I do prefer to do a shot of Kilz and a fresh wet sanding just before launching. Works for me. I haven't flown for anything but altitude for so long that it is really pretty sad. I remember thinking "why on earth would you skip painting a rocket?". Nowadays, I'm to the point that I honestly can't remember using anything but Kilz... I haven't painted a rocket in many years. I also use a lot of glass and I like the semi-transparent look.

I'm sure clear coats and wax are better than Kilz. I'm too lazy ❗

Mr ed wrote

One thing that has really been bad this year is my rockets’ tendency to chip paint. No matter how good the finish or surface prep, that chipped paint can really be a disappointment, especially when it's not from a flight

Has anybody tried Polyurethane Paint.
If I remember right, I couldnt even get in an automotive paint store.
I bought it at a Boat Building supply house in Denver. It was expensive (lot more than enamel) but I wanted someting good on my Jet Boat.
The first catalized Enamel paint job didnt last long.
The Polyurethane was a 2 part paint and it was some Bad @#% Stuff! (wear that resparater) It even had its own thinner (or somthing) for cleaning the gun. I sold the boat shortly after so I dont know how it held up. But it looked and appeared bullit proof.
A lot of people talk about Polyurethane clear coats, but this was the paint itself! If I remember right it had good filling qualities too. I think the guy said some people would brush it on with a brush and it would come out smoooooth. 💡 Doing a rocket in it would not be as expensive as doing that boat!

Scotte

YUP, looked it up $60.00 per quart.
But I think the paint is almoast structural!! 😉

Scotte

I personally use the low-end PPG paint. The clear-coat is a two part paint and they have a primer that is two part, but the paint itself is just thinned with reducer and sprayed. Typically it is in the vicinity of $30-$40 a pint and thins 3:1 with reducer before spraying.

The longer I'm in rocketry, the less inclined I am to actually paint rockets because I hate putting all that work into a finish only to have it chipped and scratched before it even flies due to handling damage. I'm leaning more and more in the direction of Mr. Wilke's befuddlement at the concept of paint.

Warren

Warren

Where do you get your paint?

Scotte

A little automotive paint store right on the south end of Main Street in Longmont. Can't remember the name of it, but it's in what used to be a house, South of 1st and north of Ken Pratt on the west side. They gave me a lot of helpful info when I told them I had absolutely no knowledge of what I was doing and had a decent HVLP paint gun and wanted to learn.

Warren

Well after some talk with Art It looks like we are working out a painting workshop for folks to come and learn and watch. It will be a topic at the NCR meeting that we will discuss. Anyhow.. I actually work in the chemical and sales side of paint for automotive. I have over many years now painted and done prep work so I do have experience. So from that experience let me let you in on something other then just the primer you use. But the primer is where we start... First off use a good prep cleaning agent. Gets all the waxes and greases off. Those can make for paint that easily flakes off Next I recommend using a 2K primer. One that catalyzed or hardened. It will make for less issues with chemical reactions as well as be more durable and chip resistant. Next Sand and prep over that again using a good cleaning agent. Then spray a good base coat or single stage if you wish. Both of which again I recommend using a catalyst in it The catalyzed base coat will now also become more durable than one that is just evaporative curred like most reduced only bases are. Then lay a good high solids clear and catalyzed Clear coat over the top. You will have a paint job that survives a lot and also looks great. Ive worked with Dupont, House of kolor, PPG, Martin Senior, Sherwin Williams, BASF and others.. Many are very similar Try to always use a good Acrylic enamel or Urethane based set up. HVLP is the best way to go.

BTW if ANY of you want custom colors or special made paints or even have a color you want come and see me and I can mix it and get you hooked up with everything you need. That even includes all the prep and finishing glazes you need all the way down the line and I give a nice discount for rocketry members to. Ask Art or Justin and some others who have gotten paint from me..

Ask Art or Justin and some others who have gotten paint from me..

My next rocket is sitting in the garage in pieces. The one before it was justed primed with over-the-counter spray can Napa gray primer. Great primer (but not for filling). I wasn't going to paint this next one until I fly it once--maybe never, just fly the fins off it, hopefully figuratively. But after the paint job Art did on the one that flew last June, it will have to be painted eventually. But I don't want him to come up with the paint. And since I know where he gets his paint, Conway, we'll talk at the annual meeting about me getting what he needs to do it, plus I'll get him an M reload. The rocket Art painted, besides enduring an M flight, went on a dance across the grasslands. Two fins that were plowing the grasslands wore down (passed the clear, paint, primer, and outer FG layer) to the Carbon-Kevlar hybrid layer--which is kinda cool if you want to show someone what "composite" means. The thing picked up rocks for goodness sakes! Some paint chipped off where I used 6 screws to hold two sections together. That junction took a lot of stress. But other than that, hardly a scratch. If you want a finish that takes punishment, automotive paint works really, really well. First flight will be the spray can Napa primer. Then I'll talk to Art...

JW, I think you would be doing yourself a big favor if you were to clear a rocket, wet sand it with 2000 and buff every last millimeter of the rocket. I really think you would be making a difference by doing that.

Just my thoughts, anyone else?

Art

HVLP

I think thats what they like to use painting aircraft fabric covering.
What king of pressure those guns work on???
My old Sharp runs on 35lbs, or maybe thats the texture gun. 55lbs ???
Been so long since I pulled off the shelf!

Scotte