Kev, while new to layups, i can say that for solid glass I like convolute too... filament wound is a severe pain in the butt on couplers or any point where your rocket separates. it also stinks on things like altimeter key holes/vents, because sometimes your snag a filament just a little with your drill bit, and you dont wind up with a round hole. Always have to hit it with CA or epoxy right after any machining so that you dont wind up with any splinters.

Get some filler putty designed for glass/plastics either way. I do fine with Bondo, but thats 'cause there was some sitting around.

I use a 10" mitre saw as well for all kinds of things, would recommend you borrow use of one or troll craigslist for a bargain 12". Also when cutting, if you have a wet-dry vac, suck up some water with it and/or wet your filter before using with glass... helps the fine particles stick (to anything) rather than sneak out.

But then again, I use a LOT of black powder, like a friend I know, who sets off car alarms in his neighborhood. 🙂

Who did this? They should have a little more respect for the people they live around, at lest give them a count down 😆

I use a cheap ($59.00) tile saw with a diamond blade ($20.00) both from Harbor Freight. Works well wet, as I do not like FG dust.

I do have a large disk sander to square the edges.

I know someone who uses a table saw with a carbide blade too.

Who did this? They should have a little more respect for the people they live around, at lest give them a count down

I bet he did. And, I'm sure after that, his neighbors learned to "duck and cover." 😉 BTW, I think Mike Konshak's saw was used for cutting steel tubes for his robots. Works on G-10 as well.

Same here, I use a 10" miter saw for most of what I do.

Mines 12" Buddy! 8)

I use a 10" miter saw with an abrasive blade and connect the shop vac to the back of the saw for dust collection.

Just a bit small huh? 😉

I use a cheap ($59.00) tile saw with a diamond blade ($20.00) both from Harbor Freight. Works well wet, as I do not like FG dust.

I do have a large disk sander to square the edges.

I know someone who uses a table saw with a carbide blade too.

Same here. I got a DIY-grade tile saw with a diamond blade from Home Depot from a tiling project years ago, and it works like a charm on fiberglass or carbon fiber, wet or dry. I think it was under $50, including the blade.

OK. I've cut a lot of 3, 4 and 6" tubes using my 10" chop saw. What is the best way to cut an 11" tube? I'm thinking about the table saw and abrasive blade with some kind of jig to rotate the tube about it's axis. I've never cut anything this large except for cardboard tubes which didn't have to be perfect.

you can make a fixture with casters to hold the tube and then a fence setup so that the tube does not walk from the blade. You just raise the blade into the tube and with a little pressure to the fence you roll the tube on the casters. This would work for any tubing size but don't think its needed until maybe 6in or better. Your cut ends up really square as long as the end on the fence is square.

Ken,

I have made a jig that is similar to the one James describes. The casters are mounted on a 12" x 6' board with a trim router fixed at one end. At the other end I use a board that is clamped perpendicular to act as the "rip fence" in James' description.

This works like a charm for larger diameter tubes. You are welcome to borrow it it you promise to keep fingers out of the exposed router bit.