Locktite, NEVER epoxy. There are 2 general types of Locktite - 25# and 90#... Use the 25#. Cheap, effective and you can undo the bolt but it won't come undone without a wrench. The weights refer to the supposed torque required to break it loose.

Also more commonly known as blue and red loctite. Red will require heat (as in a torch) along with some serious torque to remove. Blue and a jam nut should be plenty.

-Ken

I just used a nice SS lock washer on mine. Cranked it down untilit was flat. It's worked twice.

Steve

PS Thsnks for the great vid's and pictures.

Is this also a good place for a swivel?

I never use swivels in my recovery gear. Your rocket is able to rotate free in the air and a swivel is another point of failure. Loctite and a lockwasher are all you should need.

Edward

Yes, the blue Locktite in combination with a lock washer do it nicely. I agree with Edward, you need both.

If you decide to go with Loctite buy the smallest bottle and use it sparingly and you will have a lifetime supply. We use mostly Loctite #609 green. A little DAB will do and you can remove it with heat and elbow grease. Same goes for the Blue. Don't buy red, it is used for zero clearance applications like press fitting a bearing.

I do not use any loctite on the eyebolts of forward closures. I have not seen a need. Forged eyebolts are expensive and I like to move them around. If you don't have a way to securely hold the closure you could damage the forward closure removing the eyebolt.

Your eyebolt may have been loose but I am betting it did not back out.
I wrap teflon tape around the threads to make a tight fit. This works like the o-ring in the forward closure, it takes the slop out on the threads.
I have never heard of anyone putting loctite on the threads of a forward closure to keep that from getting loose, so I don't know why you would need it on the eyebolt.

The teflon tape works good for tightening up rail buttons too.

If your eyebolt does not have a shoulder add a thin nut to the eyebolt before you install it, and use that to lock the threads.

Frequently, when I am trying to secure a thread, such as I would do in securing an eye-bolt to the forward closure, I will thread two nuts onto the eye-bolt and take them all the way to the end of the thread. Then I will screw my eye-bolt into the forward closure as far as I can or want to. Then I run a nut down till it is against the closure, (and you can put a flat washer in here if you desire, and even a lock washer also.) Then I take a wrench and make sure that first nut is tight. Then I get the second nut and screw it down against the first nut and get a second wrench and tighten the two nuts against each other. They are not going to come loose until you use two wrenches to break them apart. This way everything is jammed against itself and placing pressure on the threads. If your threads in the forward closure go all the way through, then put two nuts on the eye-bolt from the inside of the closure. This can be easily done with one nut on the outside of the closure and two nuts on the inside of the closure, pressing against each other with the closure in the middle. No need of any locktite or any other type of thread locking system and always removable as long as you have a socket and a couple of wrenches. Now I am certain a lot of the people reading this already know this method, but for those with less experience, you might be gaining new knowledge for the first time, so this is for you.

Done did over kill.

i sell red threadlocker here at work.

i used a dab, put a locknut and regular nut, and washer.

i think it will stay.

threadlocker/washer/locknut/double nut

thanks

That'll get 'er done. I guess I can't see any reason for ever taking it apart. If you have a forged eye-nut, then it should not break. Of course you can always cut, drill, and tap, or buy a new forward closure. Nothing is insurmountable or impossible.

as the forward closure migrates to all 75 mm motor cases.