I scratch build most of my rockets. But when I go for my level one I want
to make sure.
I am getting a HI-Tech H45 Loc. W/38mm engine mount.
I hope to use it with a 29mm adaptor to use a 29/240 case and an H180W
load.
I have a EZI-65 built but want to save it for larger motors and W/ a little
more experience.
I 'believe it or not' launched the EZI-65 with a G80. It went, but the altitude was just enough for recovery.
As always there is a budget.
I am planning for MHM 2007
Does this sound like a good plan?
thanks Mike
Sounds like a plan, although I vastly prefer the 38mm H123 to the H180. The longer burn is nice, and the wider and shorter case is easier to clean. Either one will be nice. Will you be at the November launch this saturday?
I work weekends. 4 10s...friday through monday
All,
I too am thinking L1 now. Any opinions on the LOC Fantom 438 EXL? It's got a 38mm mount (which I'll augment with 6x24mm cluster for later 😀 ).
I think it should be nice and big and low with a small H, but capable for much more interesting (Dual deploy, etc.) for later. Should I swap G10 for the ply fins if this will also go L2?
Opinions are welcome and requested!
-Ken
That should be a good choice. G10 fins might be a good idea, although wood would work.
The Hot Pink Suppository of Discomfort had G10 fins. I LOVE working with that stuff. I don't know if .062" thick would be adequate on the larger span of the Fantom 438, though. I still have a couple sheets of .062" left. Suggestions from Mr. Composite (Chris)?
I'd love the look of CF over the stock plywood fins (glossy clear, but unpainted, of course), but I doubt it's worth the trouble.
-Ken
Pay attention to the weight on the aft end. It can dramatically alter the CG/CP ratios. Adding FG may aft may need counter balancing towards the nose.
KenP.
I could make some (pure) CF plate up for you if you wanted - it's pretty easy, and the cost would run about ~$20-$25 for enough roughly .062" thick plate for that rocket (more than adequate for almost anything L1). It would have that glossy look that you like (possibly with slight pinholes, but not many). I could also make it to any thickness you wanted (in increments of roughly .08"). Obviously, the thicker stuff takes more cloth and would be more expensive. If you don't want it, I'd recommend G10. I've flown .062 G10 fins to 600+mph before without difficulty, but there was DEFINITELY flutter. YMMV. .093" would take anything you throw at it without difficulty (IMO, anything thicker than that would be a waste unless you want to do mach with it).
Chris (who somehow apparently got dubbed "Mr Composite")
Well, Mr. Composite is probably a better label than Mr. teflon!
True 😆
As for weight, after looking at the design of that rocket, you'd probably be fine as is - no noseweight needed (especially with the CF).
when I buy a kit 1st question i ask is do i think it can handle more than the manufacter's recommended motor load? id say almost every time its a yes! EZ is a good rocket to put a 38MM motor mount in.
you just have to mod the fin roots to match against the new motor mount tube. also when you lay up your fins use the 15 min epoxy never the 5 min... 5min is good but if you want to launch on J motor eventually you want the good slow cure epoxy.
As far as G10 vs Plywood, G10 is good stuff ( hence PML kits being more money) we have gone well past 800MPH+ and not had a problem... not to say you rocket is ever gonna pull that much force. I have my minimum Diameter 38mm using plywood, but i re-enforced the fins with fiberglass just for the extra bit of durability when you go from 0 to 1000mph in 3 secs it should hold up fine IMO.
you can always add nose weight... never hurts when you are certifying rocket will be more stable, also it might not go as high so you dont have to walk to the first windmill(im lazy after the 5th launch of the day 😀 )
Oh yeah Chris has every motor casing known to man so... he will recommend the funny casings like the 1 grain 38 case LOL or the 1 grain 29 case... cause he has them (most normal citizens have 3-4 grain cases 29/180-240 and 38/ 360-480)... Good thing is if you need a motor case chris most likely has it and he will usually let you borrow it if you ask (of course the last time i borrowed his case the motor CATO'd on a lame ass G77 redline so i shot him some cash-ola after that lil mishap and so went the night launch rocket.)
try to build a rocket to get your level 1 and 2 not just one... kinda saves you from having to buy another kit, but some people want to have 2 different rockets, but I level 1 and level 2 on my PML tethys
Heh...
Well, every motor case known to man that is 38mm and down other than CTI...
As for those cases, I love my 1 grain 29. The F37 is an amazing motor 😉
If you need a case, just ask me, and I should have it if it is a 38 or smaller. Probably my favorite for L1 stuff is the Animal 38/390 case, closely followed by the Aerotech 38/600. The 29/360 is fun too. Basically, if you need it, and I have it, you can borrow it (well, pretty much always). 😆
In review to whats needed for a level 1
1- NCR Member.
2- NAR or Tripoli Member.
3- Prior Notification (to NCR) of intent of Level 1 attempt.
4- An NCR member with at least that level as witness.
5- Safe rocket for attempt with that levels motor size.
6- Notice to a vendor for the motor to be available.
7- A member with that level or higher to purchase motor.
Is that about it?
I am still planning on MHM 2007 on the friday launch.
Actually, if you're cert'ing Tripoli, you need to be sure Joe Hinton is there - the Tripoli Prefect. He is required to sign off on either L1 or L2 certs.
Warren
OK.
I am an NCR Member
I am an NAR Member
I have 4 reloads paid for and GLR Is holding (2 - Is / 2- Hs)
I have 3 level 1 capable rockets ready.
I have vacation on May 4th and 5th.
I have my Certification Application printed.
______
Now All I need is a level 1 , 2 , or 3 mentor to inspect, witness
and sign the paper work for level one.
Any takers?
Thanks Mike