Ok, most of you have seen the other post.
So, I figured it would be better to ask my questions in the proper area.
I did not realize at the time that the PML nose cones are solid. Newb mistake 😆
So, to make the best of it and take advantage of the weight, I was wondering if anyone had milled the inside out to fit the needed transmitter? I'm thinking that would be a fitting 2nd project for my new toy - 16x24 lathe....
I'm thinking a Parrot from Adrian needs to be up there somewhere too, but since I don't have any of the parts yet and need to get a parrot, I'm just wondering out loud.... I am going to play with rocksim on some designs just to get an idea of what stability issues come with what designs.
asta
Greg
The urethane cones by PML are solid, but they also have hollow fiberglass ones. I don't remember if they have hollow FG ones in 38mm. But Performance Rocketry does; I recently got a 29mm hollow FG cone from them. But if you have the NC and the lathe already, then go for it.
If you're looking for altitude, you'll want to fill up a lot of the top part of the cone with something heavy. I like to use an Epoxy/lead shot mixture. The nose weight gets the rocket up to the optimal mass with the CG as far forward as possible, which lets you reduce the fin size safely.
With the new version of the Parrot, there will be a couple of different ways to make the Parrot work side-by-side with a Beeline transmitter, so don't worry about interference. The Beeline's 6" whip antenna can be coiled somewhat (with some reduced performance, according to the maker) or even chopped in half like I did last November, for really reduced performance, but still plenty for tracking in the air over 8kft and line-of-sight on the ground.
At 3/4 mile away, the beeline signal was still so strong that the pro-made yagi picked up the signal no matter what direction I pointed it. That is unless the other beeline I loaned out was on at the time. I never did ask to find out.
I think the hollow one would be better to use so it can be weighted. I will wait and see what they sent me.
talk to you later.
At 3/4 mile away, the beeline signal was still so strong that the pro-made yagi picked up the signal no matter what direction I pointed it.
Yeah, when you get within a couple hundred yards or so it can be pretty tough to make out the signal strength differences. I did some experiments around my neighborhood with a beeline set at different transmit strengths using the PC interface and I could not discern any difference. I'm not convinced that the adjustable signal strength feature is fully implemented. Ironically, cutting the antenna in half for my F10 flight last November actually made it easier to track when I had the signal, but I did lose the signal completely when it landed in a little fold SE of the launch site and I didn't have a clear line of sight. With an unmodified antenna I could track Sponge Bob even when it was on the ground 1.5 miles away, just over a rise.
Arrow Antenna has a null antenna that I'm thinking about getting. It makes the signal go away when you point the antenna right at it, and it's supposed to be much more directional.
I talked to the loanee on the beeline (thanks S)..... He didn't have it on, which backs up your findings. I was wondering about trying the antenna with the reflectors rotated 90*. There are some prefabbed yagis that are dual band, it depends on which band is horizontal as to the reception.
On another thought, has anyone ever tried the A23 batteries? They are 1/3 the length of a AAA, smaller diameter and operate at 12V. I don't know the output, but they are pretty small and may be the "E" ticket.......
All I can find on them is that they are high output, used in security devices, video equipment and garage door openers. They run about $1.00 ea.
I have found that if the rods of your YAGI antenna is aligned with the Beeline antenna, the signal is a bit stronger. But it doesn't make a big difference.
What use were you planning for the A23 batteries? High output is relative. Their internal resistance is too high to allow them to fire an ematch reliably by themselves. The voltage is probably too high for the Beeline (it is for the Parrot, which has its own battery). I use one Li-poly cell to power the Beeline and the deployment charges, and a separate cell to power the Parrot. When I arm the charges, I know it by the fact that the Beeline comes on. Both cells are the size that are used on the Parrot, about 1 gram each (vs. 45 grams for a 9V battery). The cell resistance of the Li-poly cells I use is low enough that the 4V cell puts more current through a 1-Ohm igniter than a 9V battery does. Cells are available through http://www.all-battery.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWCATS&Category=176
I was hoping they would be a good replacement for 9v batteries..... But, if they won't fire an ematch they aren't worth anything.
I need to get a parrot from you, what is the best way?
I like LiPos' I use them in my R/C Crawlers and have all kinds of chargers for them. They are nice and small and put out some serious power fast. Thanks for the link.
Well, I'm stuck out here with Dorothy and Toto for another day, the rig was drilling slow and I lost half a day. Doggone it, I probably have all kinds of Christmas in May toys sitting at home. Especially since nobody stopped me....
A23 cells are used with a helper capacitor on the Perfectflite altimeter, but the helper cap is bigger than the equivalent Li-poly cell. I think there may be people out there who use an A23 cell with really low-current ignitors, but the cell's short-circuit current is only about 0.15 Amps
The best way is to order a Parrot is via the website: www.featherweightaltimeters.com.
One thing about using Li-poly cells to ignite pyros is you need to get the version without the cell protection circuitry, or remove it yourself, since the protection circuit's short circuit detection setting tends to be overly conservative and will cut off the discharge when you're trying to put several amps through an ematch or igniter. The internal resistance of the cells is low enough that they don't even warm up when lighting up Estes ignitors, so I'm not worried about discharging the cells faster than the cell protection circuitry would normally allow. But obviously, without the cell protection, be sure that you don't overcharge, overdischarge, or continuously short the battery.
Well, the insanity has begun..... 8)
KARAKUCHI 1 (38mm) and Unagi 1 (29mm) got rolled up tonight in 5 oz glass.
IF you like Sushi you may have known what that is. Since I rolled them like I do sushi rolls, I named them after my two favorite types. "Spicy" Tuna and "Eel" rolls
Now, if I happen to get the two parts/supply orders I had to make, I may get at least Unagi 1 in primer before Saturday.
Well, I won't post any pictures, but, Unagi came out pretty good. I vacuum bagged it after rolling it fairly tight. Karakuchi isn't as nice.... I didn't bag it, I decided to experiment some and rolled it w/o the wrap and didn't bag it. It's like your first plastic model ship/plane/car - not be the best looking thing but with some time it can be made into something your friends won't laugh at you about.... 😛
Well, the insanity has begun..... 8)
KARAKUCHI 1 (38mm) and Unagi 1 (29mm) got rolled up tonight in 5 oz glass.
IF you like Sushi you may have known what that is. Since I rolled them like I do sushi rolls, I named them after my two favorite types. "Spicy" Tuna and "Eel" roll
You know Greg
Its one thing to roam through Liquer stores, or your local Pub, reading labels on the bottles, for Rocket name ideas.
But coming out of a Sushi Bar??!!!!! 😡
Thats just going way TOO FAR !!!!!
And real men dont eat Kiech either! 😉
Well, I wasn't exactly cruising the sushi bars looking for names.... It kinda came as a brain fart sitting there rolling the 29 trying to figure out the best way to get a tight roll on it. The sushi method worked really well and so one thing led to another. Maybe it was the vintager smell of the resin that got me.
I always figured that real men eat anything thats edible. I use the definition of edible as anything that doesn't kill you.... I had to come back and add this part.... I have had food (if you want to call it that) which falls into "pushing the envelop on edible"..... So, Sushi of any type is good..... I like Sashimi personally. But, then again, I like food. I didn't get my boyish figure from eating rice cakes.....
If I could find my camera, I would actually take some pictures.
I like sushi, especially unagi. 😀
Those are freaking awesome names and I'm mad that I didn't think of it. Well done sir!
Thats it!!!
Im bringing my Pink Rocket back out!!! 8)
I've got to post because Jon Skuba doesn't - his level three bird was call Wasabi. Rocket names come from lots of different inspirations.
Thats it!!!
Im bringing my Pink Rocket back out!!! 8)
Now, just hold on there one minute. Nobody ever said anything about PINK. Do you also fly it with an AMW Pink Panther????? 😛 Shameful display of disregard for some law that I am not yet aware of......
I hope you can make it out Sat, I saw that you may not be able to. Bummer. How's the plane coming?
Joe, was John's bird a lime green color?
I am going to build a second 38mm, it may end up being something quite different. I ordered some rainbow reflective glass matting on a fluke. It came rolled on a 38mm tube. So, I'm going to leave it rolled on the tube and apply the resin as is.
I started simming Unagi 1 & 2 yesterday and like the CG/CF locations. I think it will be OK..... 14.5" long BT with either 3 or 4 fins. I haven't decided yet. But, 4 fins would be easier to mount using notches in the BT.
Thanks
Greg