I was in Longmont today and purchased what I needed for a 3.9"
3 / 29mm cluster. My last cluster was with 24mm. This I will probably
have ready by July... I hope.
On the way down I was pondering an idea. most of my ideas are not
origanal 😥 BUT.
Has anyone seen a second stage started mechanically?
I am trying to stay away from an electronic devices. What did they
do in the old days?
If I used piston ejection...Had a electrical contact on top of the piston,
and another when the piston reached it's top. It would push the second stage out , eject a chute, and make a switch contact and start the motor on the second stage. I know the timing would be critical between the chute ejection and the second stage start. I know it would be a heads
up flight also.
But has anyone?
I was thinking of this while driving and listening to My wife talk scrap booking. I did hear every word she said. ❓
That seems like a very unique system to me. But on the other hand it seems very tough. There a couple of ways you can do it...... 1. Have a igniter from the booster to light the sustainer and have a ejection charge do the parachute( becasue your booster will have a lot of gliding time!! if you put out your parachute to early youll shred) 2. OR you can get a pet timer to ignite the motor from the sustainer ( running it down the tube ). Im not a 2 stage master if you will. But that seems like a very hard way to Get er' done
-Kyle
I have made a few small two stage rockets and used a number of methods of igniting the sustainer. The two stage rocket I am building for MHM uses a system I built into a transition that couples the first stage and the second stage together. Inside it has a 9v battery, arming switch, and a G switch. The idea is when the motor burns out on the booster the negative Gs caused by gravity and air resistance, trips the switch and gives power to an igniter in the sustainer. Then motor ejection is used for popping off the transition and deploying the parachute.
The only problem with this design is that it scorches the inside of the coupler. I usually coat the inside with a mixture of west systems epoxy and powdered graphite. (Very messy)
Dale.
The only problem with this design is that it scorches the inside of the coupler. I usually coat the inside with a mixture of west systems epoxy and powdered graphite. (Very messy)
Try furnace or grill black paint. I think Rustoleum makes it; I've used it a lot, though not recently. It protects to 3-4,000 degrees. It's a shame you still can't buy asbestos padding... 8)
New Idea With Out Piston Ejection. Very Rough Drawing.
www.putfile.com/pic.php?img=5902138
Latest Post: Hello World Our newest member: stanton80z1507 Recent Posts Unread Posts
