No worries Bruce we got-er covered. Actually you will need to drill the holes the next size up wich is 1/4 inch. The nutsert inserts o.d. slip into that hole and then with the tool rivet them in place and they flush mount nice and very tight. So that way the retainer isnt setting higher either. The center hole is 8-32 thread just what the doc ordered.. problem solved. I belive that drilling the holes larger to 1/4 is better then turning and drilling even more holes. I wouldnt feel comfortable with that let alone the nutsert insert is way stronger and can be unscrewed and screwed into time and time again. I would bet the glass over time would wear out pretty fast.. and just having all those holes... not my liking.
Conway, I'm forever indebted to you for this. Can I buy a nutsert rivet tool locally, Home Depot, Lowe's, or Ace? Seems like I'm gonna need one of my own. I inherited a couple of rivet tools from my Dad; maybe there's one with his stuff, but I'd rather get a new one. Thanks!
Its possible you may find them there. Or at a local fastener shop. Here we have CD fasteners and Fasten ALL and Western Fatseners. but if I remember right I got mine at Harbor Freight Tools. (I Know not the best tools around sometimes hit or miss.. this time the product has been a hit) Plus there are 2 types of inserts. The type with a flange around the base on the outside. OR the type I use that has a taper/countersink fit to it. Low profile almost flush fitting. I get them at CD fasteners here locally in Ft Collins. you may wanna check around. Let me know if I can help somehow. even if its just pics or the such so you know what I mean..
Thanks, Conway. I have an allergy shot Tuesday, and that'll take me right by a Harbor Freight Tools. I'll see if I can find the tool and nutserts there. I'll get the ones that have the taper/countersink.
Bruce if you cant find the inserts let me know and I will send you some.
Conway, couldn't find 'em, or even the tool yet. I'll PM you. This is just great. Hey, who said life lessons were easy, huh? 🙄
No problem Bruce we will get it figured out one way or another.
Okay, I'm a nut-sert convert. The tool is the easiest tool I've ever used, and the results are unbelievable. All 12 nut-serts lined up perfectly, and the retainer followed suit. Case closed. Thanks to Conway Stevens! 🙂 Anyone who uses an Aero Pack retainer on a G10 bulk plate, this is the way to go!
Bruce...
We're going to have to talk about you and your Nutsert tool crossing paths with me and my retainer and rings... perhaps even my airframe and av-bay...
Warren
You got it, Warren. Conway can provide the right nut-serts. They are amazing.
We're going to have to talk about you and your Nutsert tool crossing paths with me and my retainer and rings... perhaps even my airframe and av-bay...
Oh, man, wait until you see how they work on a hatch. Flush.
a nutsert device can be had for about 20 bucks at Harbor--there is one in Greely, several in denver/metro and I'll bet in FC. Great tool, maybe the Chinese clone I bought isn't as good as the original sold by Spruce Aircraft Supply out of LA, but plenty functional for rockets, and scads cheaper. I have used pem nuts, plastic rivets, etc, and nothing comes close to the ease and strength of these ties. The one area where it may be an issue is into FWFG--the surrounding material has to expand a bit for the nutsert to bite. I heard a cracking sound when I put one into FWFG coupler--no visible damage, but nonetheless, when possible, now will line the interior with kevlar, and drill a 64th inch larger pilot.
John S
The one area where it may be an issue is into FWFG--the surrounding material has to expand a bit for the nutsert to bite. I heard a cracking sound when I put one into FWFG coupler--no visible damage, but nonetheless, when possible, now will line the interior with kevlar, and drill a 64th inch larger pilot.
John S
John, the snap or crack you're hearing is the nut-sert/threaded-insert breaking in half--if you're using the flush-mount ones, the other ones just smash into place. It separates, and the bottom jams up into the half above causing the expansion and proper seating. I used it in G10 spiral wound fiberglass, and you always hear the crack or snap regardless of the material. I used it on the hatch and screwing some sections together. Going to use it on the rail buttons tomorrow evening, if I'm sure the line up is straight. Just make sure the larger pilot hole isn't too large, or it won't seat tightly enough. I have the Chinese version, too, and it's fine.
Ive used these on wood, G10, FWFG, Convolute wound glass, metals, and much more and yes they (if using the flush ones I normally get) will make a crack/snap noise as the lower portion of the nut rivet snaps away and up into the upper portion causing it to expand and bite. I wouldnt worry to much. Belive it or not if the hole is to small it wont even allow for the rivet to insert let alone try to pull back up through itself.
Con,
Maybe. These riivnute aren't quite flush, but file down nicely owing to the cheap metal they contain. Put them into several materials w/o that cracking sound, but I didn't see any spider webbing either in the FG. Good tool in any event, but I do know kev takes it better than CF--latter caused an obvious delam from the FWFG tubing in which it was ballooned--I know not a good technique for internal composite reinforcement, but the inside out method with vac is time consuming and eats material like no ones biz.
John S