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I'd keep it as is, and just go bigger than you'd normally go with the main chute. I've broken a fin on 3 of the last five rockets I've launched, so I need to learn more on this as well.
IF I can get back into it, I have on my bench:
1) Competitor 3 (original convolute-wound kit by PR)
2) Upscale of the Hot Pink Suppository of Discomfort: moving from 3″ to 4″ and from 3x 24mm to 3x 38mm. I'm thinking 3 Vmax motors would give the right kick.
3) LOC Legacy built up for H268R or I200
4) repairs to Excess in Moderation (broken fin), Ultimate (broken fin)
I guess I've got build time while the field dries out.
-Ken
Like Mike, I have only removed the cardboard plug and emptied the powder. I haven't had any issue with pressure. My outboard airstart motors have only a few cubic inches of airspace in front of them (sealed, no venting) and only retained by a single #8 screw each. Never had any movement of the motors. With the vent holes, you'll be fine.
-Ken
I've always been concerned that the starter (ematch, igniter, or whatever) would open upon firing, like every Estes igniter I've used, so parallel is what I will continue to use.
As an EE, I have to question whoever wrote up the description that MikeS pasted in. That would only be the case if one had a Constant Current source to fire the matches. We use car batteries, which are a (relatively) constant voltage.
Example:
12 volt battery, 1 ohm ematches, 3 in parallel: each ematch has 12V across it, thus I=V/R=12/1=12Amps each
12 volt battery, 1 ohm ematches, 3 in series: voltage is across 3 ohms, so I=12/3=4Amps.
With standard igniters, more amps = go. Ematches don't take much of either volts or amps, so a non-issue. If ematches go short upon burning, series would be just fine, as Joe stated that's how he and the pyro crowd do it.
I'm still 100% on cluster ignitions (as long as you exclude that launch that I didn't arm my timer!), so I'll keep doing what I'm doing until it no workie no more.
-Ken
