Activity

I’ve ditched using epoxy in the nosecone and will go with PL Premium. It is a polyurethane construction glue. I was looking around and remembered that when I did water rockets I often would glue two 2L bottles to each…   Read more»

To give your epoxy more bite in the nosecone, run some pins of small brass rod criss-crossed through the tip of the cone. After the epoxy is cured, clip them off and sand flush.-Ken

Your first idea with the allthread is what I done in the past. I’ve used ether 20 or 30 minute epoxy for the allthread. You have to remember to keep the nose cone is cool water while the epoxy sets,…   Read more»

That is a good idea. I’d probably be looking at a 1.5″ diameter plywood circle at the top. I’m going to bevel it 45 degrees to get it more profiled. I really like the idea. I’m wondering if instead of…   Read more»

I hope this is not too “caveman” like.I come from a woodworking background. This idea is simple and cheep.I could not put it in words correctly. A picture is worth a thousand. Sothey say.www.putfile.com/pic.php?img=5884634

Well then, I’m about 100x more impressed!Hope to see ’em up close at an upcoming launch.-Ken

No decals. All hand painted.Thanks

That’s quite a fleet you’ve got going. Nice looking finishes. Where do you get your decals from? I found a supplier for my rocket, but he didn’t have the selection of fonts that you seem to have!Thanks,-Ken

8) I too am nearly deaf with the high tones. The fastest way is to ask someone to come out to the pad. Never had a problem, someone is always there to help. Thanks Guys!!! 8)

Talk to Jim Amos at the next launch for advice.Warren is right on both counts. You CAN stick the LED in the airframe by either using a 2-pin header or straight wiring, and the warranty IS voided. Talk to Jim….   Read more»

It is readily possible to replace an old-style RRC2 or RRC2X on-board LED with a 2 pin header and then extend the LED to the airframe for external viewing. However, this will void the warranty. The new style RRC2X-mini cannot…   Read more»

Everyone is happy to help. Art’s right. Just ask. Putting an LED in the place of a piezo buzzer is possible, but as Doug said, not advised. You’d have to determine the right resistor in series with the LED, and…   Read more»

Mike, my advice… Since you are using a Missile Works RRC2X then just ask someone to come to the pad with you and verify the beeps. Just make sure that they are hearing the three fast beeps or whatever they…   Read more»

The easiest solution is to make a hole for the existing light. Depending on the manufacture of the electronics they may have remote indicator built in. You CAN transpose the existing LED but I do NOT recommend it. You’re asking…   Read more»

Enough said. As I thought.Engineering, Enginering, EngineringThanks

After building many motors from 38mm to 6″ diameter and understanding those Motors and how they perform, what you are doing is taking a “specific” sized nozzle that has been run and tested to give pressure for a given propellant….   Read more»

On H or I reloads, there is some differences in the nozzles.H268 has a larger hole dia. than a H210.Any thing bad going to happen If the H268 nozzle is used ina H210?Boy, I would *not* risk it. So you…   Read more»

8) Oh ya, Giant Leap will be there. And as for big, how big is big? I have a couple of full K’s to launch as a warm-up for Hellfire. And as a special bonus, a big pot of Smoked…   Read more»

Yes, there will be a toilet and Yes, Giant Leap should be there. I would guess that Rocket Garden might be there as well. I’d bet on some bigger than normal shots but not sure about that yet. Either way,…   Read more»

The reducer I had from LOC also fit very loose and it was molded from plastic. I cut off the ends allowing the ejection charge to blow through it and permanently glued it into place. Of course your parachute compartment…   Read more»