Activity

1/2 are scratch and 1/2 are kits. LOC Precision.I have only been disapointed with one LOC kit. An EXPEDITER. Havenot built it yet.It took me 3 years to build my BIG NUKE.Thrift BuildingSome of my best flyers have been made…   Read more»

Mike, that’s one hell of a fleet! Can’t wait ’til I have that many big birds to play with. Right now I’m a little stuck in LPR mode – bought a ton of kits and having too much fun to…   Read more»

No nose cone yet. Still coming from ‘Scotglas’ probably will behere for the 21st. If not it will not fly till Oktoberfest.Do not have a clearcoat on yet. It is about a 5.5 upscale.www.putfile.com/pic.php?img=5926482No one was talking so I thought…   Read more»

Plenty to do.

Always… That (and the rush from flight) is what makes this hobby great. NO ONE can ever know it all. We all just keep flying and learning.

YesPlan on extending it with an electronics bay and making itduel deploy.Need to hold off for funds. I will be ordering EB end of July.May not try for my Level 2 this year. I got my Level 1 in May.Getting…   Read more»

Had to get my level one to get a motor large enough to launch it.

Nice fin fillets… say that three times fast. Any plans to put electronics in and do your L2 with it at some point?

Be sure to use Concrete nails. You know the ones that have the black powder charge like a .22 cal rifle shell. BUT modify the shell to use a JW sized charge. That ought to hold it.Hmm Ed I like…   Read more»

Use some of those cement coated 20d ring shank nails – that’ll hold ‘er. Maybe 3 or 4 of ’em. Probably be a good idea to put the motor in first though…

I would have done it with an angle grinder and a nail gun.

I figured it out (I think). Give a dumb farmboy enough time and he will usually cobble something together.What about this. Get a .75″ diameter wooden dowel, and some really coarse grit sandpaper. Orient the dowel perpendicular to the airframe…   Read more»

super glue. Base patch tapering over a square inch or so. Patch from CF or whatever mother material-best if is CF, seldom in the universe is a stronger joint than CF/CA/CF This excludes the strong nuclear force ;D

I have a couple suggestions here JW. Using a piece of metal (like aluminum or even a nutsert thats been cut down) drill the holes where you want them. then JB weld them into place into the holes in the…   Read more»

Machine shop?? Machine shop!!!! Come on, it’s time to start building rockets with angle grinders and nail guns.:)

I can handle the machining John, you just need to get me an accurate drawing including the thickness, curvature, hole size and thread pitch.My thought is you’d do it easier by using a Pem Nut and some epoxy. The rocket…   Read more»

Thanks for everyone’s suggestions. Keep in mind that all I’m trying to do is clear the rail– I don’t care if the button falls off at 5,000′ and mach 2. All I want is for a safe departure from the…   Read more»

Should those layers peel away, there goes the button along with them. Those layers aren’t going to peel away, even with an N. But Ken is right. There are so many ways to do this. You do need a flange…   Read more»

Almost everything I’ve read so far is about adding extra layers on the outside of the airframe to support/reinforce some thing – whether a band with some threads welded to it, or something else. All of these suggestions as good…   Read more»

My question… how do I make such a precise metal plate? There has to be a machinist in the club, especially on the research end. Anyone who can machine a motor casing can do this, and yes, you’d have to…   Read more»

When I started this post, I had a solution in mind… but I don’t know if it is doable. See what y’all think of this:a.) Cut a hole in the airframe about the size of a dimeb.) Have a piece…   Read more»

I checked GLR, and their 98mm Slimline’s flange must be on the other side of a centering ring. Not that you can’t modify it… Tim Thomas, Lawndartman, you there? I doubt if it’s more than 1/16″ in thickness. You only…   Read more»